Jasima/lvra.gitlab.io
1
0
Fork 0
mirror of https://gitlab.com/lvra/lvra.gitlab.io.git synced 2025-04-28 18:28:30 +02:00
Code Issues Projects Releases Packages Wiki Activity

Merge branch 'odysseyplus' into 'main'

Browse source 
adding odyssey+ details, updated readme md

See merge request lvra/lvra.gitlab.io!14
This commit is contained in:
jon's icoli 2025-04-11 15:57:52 +00:00
commit bd83b2a644
2 changed files with 159 additions and 1 deletions
Show stats Download patch file Download diff file Expand all files Collapse all files

2
content/docs/hardware/_index.md
View file

@ -60,7 +60,7 @@ A non-comprehensive table of various VR/XR devices and the drivers that support
| Acer AH101 | ✅ (Monado SteamVR plugin) | ✅ (experimental 6dof controllers) | 🚧 (WiVRn PC-PC stream) | | Acer AH101 | ✅ (Monado SteamVR plugin) | ✅ (experimental 6dof controllers) | 🚧 (WiVRn PC-PC stream) |
| Dell Visor | ✅ (Monado SteamVR plugin) | ✅ (experimental 6dof controllers) | 🚧 (WiVRn PC-PC stream) | | Dell Visor | ✅ (Monado SteamVR plugin) | ✅ (experimental 6dof controllers) | 🚧 (WiVRn PC-PC stream) |
| HP WMR headset | ✅ (Monado SteamVR plugin) | ✅ (experimental 6dof controllers) | 🚧 (WiVRn PC-PC stream) | | HP WMR headset | ✅ (Monado SteamVR plugin) | ✅ (experimental 6dof controllers) | 🚧 (WiVRn PC-PC stream) |
| Samsung Odyssey | ✅ (Monado SteamVR plugin) | ✅ (experimental 6dof controllers) | 🚧 (WiVRn PC-PC stream) | | [Samsung Odyssey](/docs/hardware/samsung_odysseyplus/) | ✅ (Monado SteamVR plugin) | ✅ (experimental 6dof controllers) | 🚧 (WiVRn PC-PC stream) |
| Asus HC102 | ✅ (Monado SteamVR plugin) | ✅ (experimental 6dof controllers) | 🚧 (WiVRn PC-PC stream) | | Asus HC102 | ✅ (Monado SteamVR plugin) | ✅ (experimental 6dof controllers) | 🚧 (WiVRn PC-PC stream) |
| Samsung Odyssey+ | ✅ (Monado SteamVR plugin) | ✅ (experimental 6dof controllers) | 🚧 (WiVRn PC-PC stream) | | Samsung Odyssey+ | ✅ (Monado SteamVR plugin) | ✅ (experimental 6dof controllers) | 🚧 (WiVRn PC-PC stream) |
| HP Reverb | ✅ (Monado SteamVR plugin) | ✅ (experimental 6dof controllers) | 🚧 (WiVRn PC-PC stream) | | HP Reverb | ✅ (Monado SteamVR plugin) | ✅ (experimental 6dof controllers) | 🚧 (WiVRn PC-PC stream) |

158
content/docs/hardware/samsung_odysseyplus.md Normal file
View file

@ -0,0 +1,158 @@
---
weight: 50
title: Samsung Odyssey+ Rewiring Project. (WIP)
---
So, you bought a headset from a multimillion dollar corporation, and not only do they not support it, they get mad at you for asking. Well that sucks.
This is an incomplete project; I have not been able to get this thing to power on.
# What I know
Samsung Odyssey is listed as HDMI2.0 + USB 3.0 Interface Bound Cable
As far as I can tell, the USB is a USB A Superspeed cable.
These wires have very low impedance (0.1 on my multimeter) to the point that I had to use headphone wire to make the connection. The wires are also very fiddly - you will want to use a very sharp knife to nick the thin cable, then gently slide the insulating plastic off the end.
I also happen to know that HDMI is, supposedly, very picky about cable length, especially with twisted pairs. Cut these as close to the same length as possible.
<!-- TODO: get hi res glossy JPEGs of how thin these things are!! -->
Pre-join, the cable appears to be an HDMI 2.0 cable and a USB 3.0 Superspeed.
The potted part in the middle doesn't seem to have any sort of electrical significance; taking passes at it with a razor, it mostly just seems to combine the two cables into one cable. Will investigate again later.
Using a multimeter and an impedance test, I was able to test the connectivity of the colored wires in the O+. There's one that I haven't been able to assess what it goes to. (the light blue teeny wire)
pre-join:
## USB A 3.0 Superspeed PINS https://www.usbgear.com/usb3-info.html
| Pin # (on USB connector) | Function | Color | Notes |
|--------------------------|-----------------------------|-----------|-------------------------------------------------------------------------|
|Pin 1|GND|Bare Wire||
|Pin 2|Data-|Light Blue Twisted Pair (Green wire)||
|Pin 3|Data+|Light Blue Twisted Pair (White wire)||
|Pin 4|Power|Matte Red|There should be two of these|
|Pin 5|Receive-|Orange Twisted Pair (White wire)||
|Pin 6|Receive+|Orange Twisted Pair (Blue wire)||
|Pin 7|DRAIN_GND|Casing, silver wires in orange and yellow twisted pair||
|Pin 8|Transmit-|Yellow Twisted Pair (White wire)||
|Pin 9|Transmit+|Yellow Twisted Pair (Blue wire)||
|Pin 10|GND|Possibly also the casing?||
|Pin ??|Light Blue teeny wire|I know it goes to the USB side, but not sure where........
## HDMI 2.0 PINS (sourced from https://www.etechnophiles.com/hdmi-connector-pinout/#type-a-hdmi-connector-pinout) and a multimeter:
| Pin # (on USB connector) | Function | Color | Notes |
|--------------------------|----------|-------|-------|
|Pin 1|TDMS Data 2+|twisted blue (blue wire)||
|Pin 2|TDMS Data 2 Shield?|twisted blue (bare wire)||
|Pin 3|TDMS Data 2-|twisted blue (white wire)||
|Pin 4|TDMS Data 1+|twisted red (blue wire)||
|Pin 5|TDMS Data 1 SHIELD?|twisted red (bare wire)||
|Pin 6|TDMS Data 1-|twisted red (white wire)||
|Pin 7|TDMS DATA 0+|twisted black (Blue)||
|Pin 8|TDMS DATA 0 SHIELD?|twisted black (Bare)||
|Pin 9|TDMS DATA 0|twisted black (White)||
|Pin 10|TDMS CLOCK+|twisted silver (Blue wire)||
|Pin 11|TDMS CLOCK SHIELD?|twisted silver (bare)||
|Pin 12|TDMS CLOCK-|twisted silver (White wire)||
|Pin 13|CEC ground|??? apparently might not be needed||
|Pin 14|CEC Data?|??? apparently might not be needed||
|Pin 15|DDC Clock|Yellow teeny wire|might have misinterpreted the pinouts|
|Pin 16|DDC Data|red teeny wire|Might have misinterpreted the pinouts.|
|Pin 17|GND|Thin bare wire.|Possibly also the casing?|
|Pin 18|+5V|light pink||
|Pin 19|HOTPLUG|silvurple teeny wire||
|Pin 20|???|???|my breakout board had 20 pins; possible this is just the ground again.| n/a
<!-- TODO: exact hex color values! -->
HDMI pins are when I'm facing the plug
this image is of the FEMALE. the MALE is reversed (ie, on the male, the pin 1 would be on the top left, the male would be on the top right
blue 3B5367
copper/orange, 493E2F
yellow/green, 7F7D6E
red 290205
silver/silvurple/purple 4E494F
post-join:
2 exposeds (1 thick 1 thin)
2 matte reds
1 2 lblue twisted
1 2 silver twisted
1 2 black twisted
1 2 blue twisted
1 2 yellow twisted
1 2 red twisted
5 teeny wires (orange, yellow, red, blue, grey)
= 21 total wires (15 if the twisteds are the same)
impedance:
Long story short I tried bridging the gap with CAT6 wire, which is no bueno for HDMI. Any cable patching needs to be with something like 0.1 ohms.
Sources:
https://www.solder.party/docs/usb-c-breakout/3/?
https://www.etechnophiles.com/hdmi-connector-pinout/#type-a-hdmi-connector-pinout
wiring:
https://www.reddit.com/r/WindowsMR/comments/sa0o0k/i_managed_to_repair_a_broken_samsung_odyssey_and/ by StupidHorseface
https://imgur.com/a/2cfu4iP - samsung rewiring, 2019
https://imgur.com/a/xoYdEoP - samsung teardown, 2019
https://www.reddit.com/r/Soundbars/comments/13krerz/blocking_cec_pin_13_on_the_hdmi_cable_resolved/ - blocking the CEC pin / not connecting it.
stuff I haven't tried:
opening the samsung guts:
https://www.reddit.com/r/WindowsMR/comments/a6vh5b/samsung_hmd_odyssey_partial_teardown_new_pics/ by josh6499
https://imgur.com/gallery/WGVj0sM (includes a closeup of the proprietary cable end)
https://imgur.com/a/xoYdEoP (ditto - the cable cannot be removed without the halo)
https://imgur.com/a/oBFWFm3
repairing the o+ controller touchpad:
https://www.reddit.com/r/WindowsMR/comments/hs4koi/how_do_you_disassemble_a_samsung_odyssey_plus/
reflashing the o+ firmware
https://www.reddit.com/r/WindowsMR/comments/n03om7/samsung_odyssey_plus_reflash_firmware_method/
Better O+ display (pixel density):
https://steamcommunity.com/app/719950/discussions/0/3276824488715073552/?ctp=3
https://github.com/Fraxul/Explorer-Breakout (for the Lenovo Explorer; but could use the spacer and board concept to replace the O+ cable.