From dc7fa6a767173ea625bc4cee6f761303ce1d5ff4 Mon Sep 17 00:00:00 2001 From: jonsicoli <jonsicoli+coder@gmail.com> Date: Sun, 31 Mar 2024 03:15:29 -0600 Subject: [PATCH] setup o+ page. --- README.md | 2 +- content/docs/hardware/_index.md | 2 +- content/docs/hardware/samsung_odysseyplus.md | 157 +++++++++++++++++++ 3 files changed, 159 insertions(+), 2 deletions(-) create mode 100644 content/docs/hardware/samsung_odysseyplus.md diff --git a/README.md b/README.md index dbce239..9866764 100644 --- a/README.md +++ b/README.md @@ -15,7 +15,7 @@ You'll need to clone this repo with submodules or init your submodules after the #### Clone with submodules ```bash -git clone https://gitlab.com/LVRA/wiki --recurse-submodules +git clone https://gitlab.com/lvra/lvra.gitlab.io --recurse-submodules ``` #### Init submodules in existing clone diff --git a/content/docs/hardware/_index.md b/content/docs/hardware/_index.md index 2097806..fb78eda 100644 --- a/content/docs/hardware/_index.md +++ b/content/docs/hardware/_index.md @@ -56,7 +56,7 @@ A non-comprehensive table of various VR/XR devices and the drivers that support | Acer AH101 | ✅ (Monado SteamVR plugin) | ✅ (experimental 6dof controllers) | 🚧 (WiVRn PC-PC stream) | | Dell Visor | ✅ (Monado SteamVR plugin) | ✅ (experimental 6dof controllers) | 🚧 (WiVRn PC-PC stream) | | HP WMR headset | ✅ (Monado SteamVR plugin) | ✅ (experimental 6dof controllers) | 🚧 (WiVRn PC-PC stream) | -| Samsung Odyssey | ✅ (Monado SteamVR plugin) | ✅ (experimental 6dof controllers) | 🚧 (WiVRn PC-PC stream) | +| [Samsung Odyssey](/docs/hardware/samsung_odysseyplus/) | ✅ (Monado SteamVR plugin) | ✅ (experimental 6dof controllers) | 🚧 (WiVRn PC-PC stream) | | Asus HC102 | ✅ (Monado SteamVR plugin) | ✅ (experimental 6dof controllers) | 🚧 (WiVRn PC-PC stream) | | Samsung Odyssey+ | ✅ (Monado SteamVR plugin) | ✅ (experimental 6dof controllers) | 🚧 (WiVRn PC-PC stream) | | HP Reverb | ✅ (Monado SteamVR plugin) | ✅ (experimental 6dof controllers) | 🚧 (WiVRn PC-PC stream) | diff --git a/content/docs/hardware/samsung_odysseyplus.md b/content/docs/hardware/samsung_odysseyplus.md new file mode 100644 index 0000000..9c2093b --- /dev/null +++ b/content/docs/hardware/samsung_odysseyplus.md @@ -0,0 +1,157 @@ +--- +weight: 50 +title: Samsung Odyssey+ Rewiring Project. (WIP) +--- + +So, you bought a headset from a multimillion dollar corporation, and not only do they not support it, they get mad at you for asking. Well that sucks. + +This is an incomplete project; I have not been able to get this thing to power on. + +# What I know + +Samsung Odyssey is listed as HDMI2.0 + USB 3.0 Interface Bound Cable +As far as I can tell, the USB is a USB A Superspeed cable. + +These wires have very low impedance (0.1 on my multimeter) to the point that I had to use headphone wire to make the connection. The wires are also very fiddly - you will want to use a very sharp knife to nick the thin cable, then gently slide the insulating plastic off the end. + +I also happen to know that HDMI is, supposedly, very picky about cable length, especially with twisted pairs. Cut these as close to the same length as possible. + +(get hi res glossy JPEGs of how friggin' thin these things are!!) + +Pre-join, the cable appears to be an HDMI 2.0 cable and a USB 3.0 Superspeed. +The potted part in the middle doesn't seem to have any sort of electrical significance; taking passes at it with a razor, it mostly just seems to combine the two cables into one cable. Will investigate again later. + +Using a multimeter and an impedance test, I was able to test the connectivity of the colored wires in the O+. There's one that I haven't been able to assess what it goes to. (the light blue teeny wire) + +pre-join: + +## USB A 3.0 Superspeed PINS https://www.usbgear.com/usb3-info.html + +| Pin # (on USB connector) | Function | Color | Notes | +|--------------------------|-----------------------------|-----------|-------------------------------------------------------------------------| +|Pin 1|GND|Bare Wire|| +|Pin 2|Data-|Light Blue Twisted Pair (Green wire)|| +|Pin 3|Data+|Light Blue Twisted Pair (White wire)|| +|Pin 4|Power|Matte Red|There should be two of these| +|Pin 5|Receive-|Orange Twisted Pair (White wire)|| +|Pin 6|Receive+|Orange Twisted Pair (Blue wire)|| +|Pin 7|DRAIN_GND|Casing, silver wires in orange and yellow twisted pair|| +|Pin 8|Transmit-|Yellow Twisted Pair (White wire)|| +|Pin 9|Transmit+|Yellow Twisted Pair (Blue wire)|| +|Pin 10|GND|Possibly also the casing?|| + +|Pin ??|Light Blue teeny wire|I know it goes to the USB side, but not sure where........ + + + + +## HDMI 2.0 PINS (sourced from https://www.etechnophiles.com/hdmi-connector-pinout/#type-a-hdmi-connector-pinout) and a multimeter: + +| Pin # (on USB connector) | Function | Color | Notes | +|--------------------------|-----------------------------|-----------|-------------------------------------------------------------------------| +|Pin 1|TDMS Data 2+|twisted blue (blue wire)|| +|Pin 2|TDMS Data 2 Shield?|twisted blue (bare wire)|| +|Pin 3|TDMS Data 2-|twisted blue (white wire)|| +|Pin 4|TDMS Data 1+|twisted red (blue wire)|| +|Pin 5|TDMS Data 1 SHIELD?|twisted red (bare wire)|| +|Pin 6|TDMS Data 1-|twisted red (white wire)|| +|Pin 7|TDMS DATA 0+|twisted black (Blue)|| +|Pin 8|TDMS DATA 0 SHIELD?|twisted black (Bare)|| +|Pin 9|TDMS DATA 0|twisted black (White)|| +|Pin 10|TDMS CLOCK+|twisted silver (Blue wire)|| +|Pin 11|TDMS CLOCK SHIELD?|twisted silver (bare)|| +|Pin 12|TDMS CLOCK-|twisted silver (White wire)|| +|Pin 13|CEC ground|??? apparently might not be needed|| +|Pin 14|CEC Data?|??? apparently might not be needed|| +|Pin 15|DDC Clock|Yellow teeny wire|might have misinterpreted the pinouts| +|Pin 16|DDC Data|red teeny wire|Might have misinterpreted the pinouts.| +|Pin 17|GND|Thin bare wire.|Possibly also the casing?| +|Pin 18|+5V|light pink|| +|Pin 19|HOTPLUG|silvurple teeny wire|| +|Pin 20|???|???|my breakout board had 20 pins; possible this is just the ground again.| n/a +TODO: exact hex color values! + + +HDMI pins are when I'm facing the plug + +this image is of the FEMALE. the MALE is reversed (ie, on the male, the pin 1 would be on the top left, the male would be on the top right + + + + +blue 3B5367 + copper/orange, 493E2F + yellow/green, 7F7D6E + red 290205 + silver/silvurple/purple 4E494F + + + + +post-join: +2 exposeds (1 thick 1 thin) +2 matte reds + 1 2 lblue twisted + 1 2 silver twisted + 1 2 black twisted + 1 2 blue twisted + 1 2 yellow twisted + 1 2 red twisted + + 5 teeny wires (orange, yellow, red, blue, grey) + + + = 21 total wires (15 if the twisteds are the same) + + + impedance: + + Long story short I tried bridging the gap with CAT6 wire, which is no bueno for HDMI. Any cable patching needs to be with something like 0.1 ohms. + + + + + + + Sources: + https://www.solder.party/docs/usb-c-breakout/3/? + https://www.etechnophiles.com/hdmi-connector-pinout/#type-a-hdmi-connector-pinout + + wiring: + + https://www.reddit.com/r/WindowsMR/comments/sa0o0k/i_managed_to_repair_a_broken_samsung_odyssey_and/ by StupidHorseface + https://imgur.com/a/2cfu4iP - samsung rewiring, 2019 + + + + https://imgur.com/a/xoYdEoP - samsung teardown, 2019 + +https://www.reddit.com/r/Soundbars/comments/13krerz/blocking_cec_pin_13_on_the_hdmi_cable_resolved/ - blocking the CEC pin / not connecting it. + + +stuff I haven't tried: + +opening the samsung guts: + + https://www.reddit.com/r/WindowsMR/comments/a6vh5b/samsung_hmd_odyssey_partial_teardown_new_pics/ by josh6499 + https://imgur.com/gallery/WGVj0sM (includes a closeup of the proprietary cable end) + https://imgur.com/a/xoYdEoP (ditto - the cable cannot be removed without the halo) + https://imgur.com/a/oBFWFm3 + + repairing the o+ controller touchpad: + https://www.reddit.com/r/WindowsMR/comments/hs4koi/how_do_you_disassemble_a_samsung_odyssey_plus/ + + + reflashing the o+ firmware + https://www.reddit.com/r/WindowsMR/comments/n03om7/samsung_odyssey_plus_reflash_firmware_method/ + + +Better O+ display (pixel density): +https://steamcommunity.com/app/719950/discussions/0/3276824488715073552/?ctp=3 + + +https://github.com/Fraxul/Explorer-Breakout (for the Lenovo Explorer; but could use the spacer and board concept to replace the O+ cable. + + + + \ No newline at end of file