--- weight: 50 title: Samsung Odyssey+ Rewiring Project. (WIP) --- So, you bought a headset from a multimillion dollar corporation, and not only do they not support it, they get mad at you for asking. Well that sucks. This is an incomplete project; I have not been able to get this thing to power on. # What I know Samsung Odyssey is listed as HDMI2.0 + USB 3.0 Interface Bound Cable As far as I can tell, the USB is a USB A Superspeed cable. These wires have very low impedance (0.1 on my multimeter) to the point that I had to use headphone wire to make the connection. The wires are also very fiddly - you will want to use a very sharp knife to nick the thin cable, then gently slide the insulating plastic off the end. I also happen to know that HDMI is, supposedly, very picky about cable length, especially with twisted pairs. Cut these as close to the same length as possible. Pre-join, the cable appears to be an HDMI 2.0 cable and a USB 3.0 Superspeed. The potted part in the middle doesn't seem to have any sort of electrical significance; taking passes at it with a razor, it mostly just seems to combine the two cables into one cable. Will investigate again later. Using a multimeter and an impedance test, I was able to test the connectivity of the colored wires in the O+. There's one that I haven't been able to assess what it goes to. (the light blue teeny wire) pre-join: ## USB A 3.0 Superspeed PINS https://www.usbgear.com/usb3-info.html | Pin # (on USB connector) | Function | Color | Notes | |--------------------------|-----------------------------|-----------|-------------------------------------------------------------------------| |Pin 1|GND|Bare Wire|| |Pin 2|Data-|Light Blue Twisted Pair (Green wire)|| |Pin 3|Data+|Light Blue Twisted Pair (White wire)|| |Pin 4|Power|Matte Red|There should be two of these| |Pin 5|Receive-|Orange Twisted Pair (White wire)|| |Pin 6|Receive+|Orange Twisted Pair (Blue wire)|| |Pin 7|DRAIN_GND|Casing, silver wires in orange and yellow twisted pair|| |Pin 8|Transmit-|Yellow Twisted Pair (White wire)|| |Pin 9|Transmit+|Yellow Twisted Pair (Blue wire)|| |Pin 10|GND|Possibly also the casing?|| |Pin ??|Light Blue teeny wire|I know it goes to the USB side, but not sure where........ ## HDMI 2.0 PINS (sourced from https://www.etechnophiles.com/hdmi-connector-pinout/#type-a-hdmi-connector-pinout) and a multimeter: | Pin # (on USB connector) | Function | Color | Notes | |--------------------------|----------|-------|-------| |Pin 1|TDMS Data 2+|twisted blue (blue wire)|| |Pin 2|TDMS Data 2 Shield?|twisted blue (bare wire)|| |Pin 3|TDMS Data 2-|twisted blue (white wire)|| |Pin 4|TDMS Data 1+|twisted red (blue wire)|| |Pin 5|TDMS Data 1 SHIELD?|twisted red (bare wire)|| |Pin 6|TDMS Data 1-|twisted red (white wire)|| |Pin 7|TDMS DATA 0+|twisted black (Blue)|| |Pin 8|TDMS DATA 0 SHIELD?|twisted black (Bare)|| |Pin 9|TDMS DATA 0|twisted black (White)|| |Pin 10|TDMS CLOCK+|twisted silver (Blue wire)|| |Pin 11|TDMS CLOCK SHIELD?|twisted silver (bare)|| |Pin 12|TDMS CLOCK-|twisted silver (White wire)|| |Pin 13|CEC ground|??? apparently might not be needed|| |Pin 14|CEC Data?|??? apparently might not be needed|| |Pin 15|DDC Clock|Yellow teeny wire|might have misinterpreted the pinouts| |Pin 16|DDC Data|red teeny wire|Might have misinterpreted the pinouts.| |Pin 17|GND|Thin bare wire.|Possibly also the casing?| |Pin 18|+5V|light pink|| |Pin 19|HOTPLUG|silvurple teeny wire|| |Pin 20|???|???|my breakout board had 20 pins; possible this is just the ground again.| n/a HDMI pins are when I'm facing the plug this image is of the FEMALE. the MALE is reversed (ie, on the male, the pin 1 would be on the top left, the male would be on the top right blue 3B5367 copper/orange, 493E2F yellow/green, 7F7D6E red 290205 silver/silvurple/purple 4E494F post-join: 2 exposeds (1 thick 1 thin) 2 matte reds 1 2 lblue twisted 1 2 silver twisted 1 2 black twisted 1 2 blue twisted 1 2 yellow twisted 1 2 red twisted 5 teeny wires (orange, yellow, red, blue, grey) = 21 total wires (15 if the twisteds are the same) impedance: Long story short I tried bridging the gap with CAT6 wire, which is no bueno for HDMI. Any cable patching needs to be with something like 0.1 ohms. Sources: https://www.solder.party/docs/usb-c-breakout/3/? https://www.etechnophiles.com/hdmi-connector-pinout/#type-a-hdmi-connector-pinout wiring: https://www.reddit.com/r/WindowsMR/comments/sa0o0k/i_managed_to_repair_a_broken_samsung_odyssey_and/ by StupidHorseface https://imgur.com/a/2cfu4iP - samsung rewiring, 2019 https://imgur.com/a/xoYdEoP - samsung teardown, 2019 https://www.reddit.com/r/Soundbars/comments/13krerz/blocking_cec_pin_13_on_the_hdmi_cable_resolved/ - blocking the CEC pin / not connecting it. stuff I haven't tried: opening the samsung guts: https://www.reddit.com/r/WindowsMR/comments/a6vh5b/samsung_hmd_odyssey_partial_teardown_new_pics/ by josh6499 https://imgur.com/gallery/WGVj0sM (includes a closeup of the proprietary cable end) https://imgur.com/a/xoYdEoP (ditto - the cable cannot be removed without the halo) https://imgur.com/a/oBFWFm3 repairing the o+ controller touchpad: https://www.reddit.com/r/WindowsMR/comments/hs4koi/how_do_you_disassemble_a_samsung_odyssey_plus/ reflashing the o+ firmware https://www.reddit.com/r/WindowsMR/comments/n03om7/samsung_odyssey_plus_reflash_firmware_method/ Better O+ display (pixel density): https://steamcommunity.com/app/719950/discussions/0/3276824488715073552/?ctp=3 https://github.com/Fraxul/Explorer-Breakout (for the Lenovo Explorer; but could use the spacer and board concept to replace the O+ cable.