6 KiB
| weight | title |
|---|---|
| 50 | Samsung Odyssey+ Rewiring Project. (WIP) |
So, you bought a headset from a multimillion dollar corporation, and not only do they not support it, they get mad at you for asking. Well that sucks.
This is an incomplete project; I have not been able to get this thing to power on.
What I know
Samsung Odyssey is listed as HDMI2.0 + USB 3.0 Interface Bound Cable As far as I can tell, the USB is a USB A Superspeed cable.
These wires have very low impedance (0.1 on my multimeter) to the point that I had to use headphone wire to make the connection. The wires are also very fiddly - you will want to use a very sharp knife to nick the thin cable, then gently slide the insulating plastic off the end.
I also happen to know that HDMI is, supposedly, very picky about cable length, especially with twisted pairs. Cut these as close to the same length as possible.
Pre-join, the cable appears to be an HDMI 2.0 cable and a USB 3.0 Superspeed. The potted part in the middle doesn't seem to have any sort of electrical significance; taking passes at it with a razor, it mostly just seems to combine the two cables into one cable. Will investigate again later.
Using a multimeter and an impedance test, I was able to test the connectivity of the colored wires in the O+. There's one that I haven't been able to assess what it goes to. (the light blue teeny wire)
pre-join:
USB A 3.0 Superspeed PINS https://www.usbgear.com/usb3-info.html
| Pin # (on USB connector) | Function | Color | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| Pin 1 | GND | Bare Wire | |
| Pin 2 | Data- | Light Blue Twisted Pair (Green wire) | |
| Pin 3 | Data+ | Light Blue Twisted Pair (White wire) | |
| Pin 4 | Power | Matte Red | There should be two of these |
| Pin 5 | Receive- | Orange Twisted Pair (White wire) | |
| Pin 6 | Receive+ | Orange Twisted Pair (Blue wire) | |
| Pin 7 | DRAIN_GND | Casing, silver wires in orange and yellow twisted pair | |
| Pin 8 | Transmit- | Yellow Twisted Pair (White wire) | |
| Pin 9 | Transmit+ | Yellow Twisted Pair (Blue wire) | |
| Pin 10 | GND | Possibly also the casing? |
|Pin ??|Light Blue teeny wire|I know it goes to the USB side, but not sure where........
HDMI 2.0 PINS (sourced from https://www.etechnophiles.com/hdmi-connector-pinout/#type-a-hdmi-connector-pinout) and a multimeter:
| Pin # (on USB connector) | Function | Color | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| Pin 1 | TDMS Data 2+ | twisted blue (blue wire) | |
| Pin 2 | TDMS Data 2 Shield? | twisted blue (bare wire) | |
| Pin 3 | TDMS Data 2- | twisted blue (white wire) | |
| Pin 4 | TDMS Data 1+ | twisted red (blue wire) | |
| Pin 5 | TDMS Data 1 SHIELD? | twisted red (bare wire) | |
| Pin 6 | TDMS Data 1- | twisted red (white wire) | |
| Pin 7 | TDMS DATA 0+ | twisted black (Blue) | |
| Pin 8 | TDMS DATA 0 SHIELD? | twisted black (Bare) | |
| Pin 9 | TDMS DATA 0 | twisted black (White) | |
| Pin 10 | TDMS CLOCK+ | twisted silver (Blue wire) | |
| Pin 11 | TDMS CLOCK SHIELD? | twisted silver (bare) | |
| Pin 12 | TDMS CLOCK- | twisted silver (White wire) | |
| Pin 13 | CEC ground | ??? apparently might not be needed | |
| Pin 14 | CEC Data? | ??? apparently might not be needed | |
| Pin 15 | DDC Clock | Yellow teeny wire | might have misinterpreted the pinouts |
| Pin 16 | DDC Data | red teeny wire | Might have misinterpreted the pinouts. |
| Pin 17 | GND | Thin bare wire. | Possibly also the casing? |
| Pin 18 | +5V | light pink | |
| Pin 19 | HOTPLUG | silvurple teeny wire | |
| Pin 20 | ??? | ??? | my breakout board had 20 pins; possible this is just the ground again. |
| TODO: exact hex color values! |
HDMI pins are when I'm facing the plug
this image is of the FEMALE. the MALE is reversed (ie, on the male, the pin 1 would be on the top left, the male would be on the top right
blue 3B5367 copper/orange, 493E2F yellow/green, 7F7D6E red 290205 silver/silvurple/purple 4E494F
post-join: 2 exposeds (1 thick 1 thin) 2 matte reds 1 2 lblue twisted 1 2 silver twisted 1 2 black twisted 1 2 blue twisted 1 2 yellow twisted 1 2 red twisted
5 teeny wires (orange, yellow, red, blue, grey)
= 21 total wires (15 if the twisteds are the same)
impedance:
Long story short I tried bridging the gap with CAT6 wire, which is no bueno for HDMI. Any cable patching needs to be with something like 0.1 ohms.
Sources: https://www.solder.party/docs/usb-c-breakout/3/? https://www.etechnophiles.com/hdmi-connector-pinout/#type-a-hdmi-connector-pinout
wiring:
https://www.reddit.com/r/WindowsMR/comments/sa0o0k/i_managed_to_repair_a_broken_samsung_odyssey_and/ by StupidHorseface https://imgur.com/a/2cfu4iP - samsung rewiring, 2019
https://imgur.com/a/xoYdEoP - samsung teardown, 2019
https://www.reddit.com/r/Soundbars/comments/13krerz/blocking_cec_pin_13_on_the_hdmi_cable_resolved/ - blocking the CEC pin / not connecting it.
stuff I haven't tried:
opening the samsung guts:
https://www.reddit.com/r/WindowsMR/comments/a6vh5b/samsung_hmd_odyssey_partial_teardown_new_pics/ by josh6499 https://imgur.com/gallery/WGVj0sM (includes a closeup of the proprietary cable end) https://imgur.com/a/xoYdEoP (ditto - the cable cannot be removed without the halo) https://imgur.com/a/oBFWFm3
repairing the o+ controller touchpad: https://www.reddit.com/r/WindowsMR/comments/hs4koi/how_do_you_disassemble_a_samsung_odyssey_plus/
reflashing the o+ firmware https://www.reddit.com/r/WindowsMR/comments/n03om7/samsung_odyssey_plus_reflash_firmware_method/
Better O+ display (pixel density): https://steamcommunity.com/app/719950/discussions/0/3276824488715073552/?ctp=3
https://github.com/Fraxul/Explorer-Breakout (for the Lenovo Explorer; but could use the spacer and board concept to replace the O+ cable.