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The hex colors are more for differentiation - the 'teeny wires' are very lightly colored, and similarly shaded to each other, to the point where the 'light pink' and 'light silver-purple' are difficult (for me) to distinguish. Hoping that the reference pictures I plan to include makes this easier to see. Adding your TODO recommendation.
158 lines
No EOL
5.8 KiB
Markdown
158 lines
No EOL
5.8 KiB
Markdown
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weight: 50
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title: Samsung Odyssey+ Rewiring Project. (WIP)
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---
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So, you bought a headset from a multimillion dollar corporation, and not only do they not support it, they get mad at you for asking. Well that sucks.
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This is an incomplete project; I have not been able to get this thing to power on.
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# What I know
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Samsung Odyssey is listed as HDMI2.0 + USB 3.0 Interface Bound Cable
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As far as I can tell, the USB is a USB A Superspeed cable.
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These wires have very low impedance (0.1 on my multimeter) to the point that I had to use headphone wire to make the connection. The wires are also very fiddly - you will want to use a very sharp knife to nick the thin cable, then gently slide the insulating plastic off the end.
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I also happen to know that HDMI is, supposedly, very picky about cable length, especially with twisted pairs. Cut these as close to the same length as possible.
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<!-- TODO: get hi res glossy JPEGs of how thin these things are!! -->
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Pre-join, the cable appears to be an HDMI 2.0 cable and a USB 3.0 Superspeed.
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The potted part in the middle doesn't seem to have any sort of electrical significance; taking passes at it with a razor, it mostly just seems to combine the two cables into one cable. Will investigate again later.
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Using a multimeter and an impedance test, I was able to test the connectivity of the colored wires in the O+. There's one that I haven't been able to assess what it goes to. (the light blue teeny wire)
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pre-join:
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## USB A 3.0 Superspeed PINS https://www.usbgear.com/usb3-info.html
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| Pin # (on USB connector) | Function | Color | Notes |
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|--------------------------|-----------------------------|-----------|-------------------------------------------------------------------------|
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|Pin 1|GND|Bare Wire||
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|Pin 2|Data-|Light Blue Twisted Pair (Green wire)||
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|Pin 3|Data+|Light Blue Twisted Pair (White wire)||
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|Pin 4|Power|Matte Red|There should be two of these|
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|Pin 5|Receive-|Orange Twisted Pair (White wire)||
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|Pin 6|Receive+|Orange Twisted Pair (Blue wire)||
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|Pin 7|DRAIN_GND|Casing, silver wires in orange and yellow twisted pair||
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|Pin 8|Transmit-|Yellow Twisted Pair (White wire)||
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|Pin 9|Transmit+|Yellow Twisted Pair (Blue wire)||
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|Pin 10|GND|Possibly also the casing?||
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|Pin ??|Light Blue teeny wire|I know it goes to the USB side, but not sure where........
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## HDMI 2.0 PINS (sourced from https://www.etechnophiles.com/hdmi-connector-pinout/#type-a-hdmi-connector-pinout) and a multimeter:
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| Pin # (on USB connector) | Function | Color | Notes |
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|--------------------------|----------|-------|-------|
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|Pin 1|TDMS Data 2+|twisted blue (blue wire)||
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|Pin 2|TDMS Data 2 Shield?|twisted blue (bare wire)||
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|Pin 3|TDMS Data 2-|twisted blue (white wire)||
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|Pin 4|TDMS Data 1+|twisted red (blue wire)||
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|Pin 5|TDMS Data 1 SHIELD?|twisted red (bare wire)||
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|Pin 6|TDMS Data 1-|twisted red (white wire)||
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|Pin 7|TDMS DATA 0+|twisted black (Blue)||
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|Pin 8|TDMS DATA 0 SHIELD?|twisted black (Bare)||
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|Pin 9|TDMS DATA 0|twisted black (White)||
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|Pin 10|TDMS CLOCK+|twisted silver (Blue wire)||
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|Pin 11|TDMS CLOCK SHIELD?|twisted silver (bare)||
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|Pin 12|TDMS CLOCK-|twisted silver (White wire)||
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|Pin 13|CEC ground|??? apparently might not be needed||
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|Pin 14|CEC Data?|??? apparently might not be needed||
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|Pin 15|DDC Clock|Yellow teeny wire|might have misinterpreted the pinouts|
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|Pin 16|DDC Data|red teeny wire|Might have misinterpreted the pinouts.|
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|Pin 17|GND|Thin bare wire.|Possibly also the casing?|
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|Pin 18|+5V|light pink||
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|Pin 19|HOTPLUG|silvurple teeny wire||
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|Pin 20|???|???|my breakout board had 20 pins; possible this is just the ground again.| n/a
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<!-- TODO: exact hex color values! -->
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HDMI pins are when I'm facing the plug
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this image is of the FEMALE. the MALE is reversed (ie, on the male, the pin 1 would be on the top left, the male would be on the top right
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blue 3B5367
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copper/orange, 493E2F
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yellow/green, 7F7D6E
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red 290205
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silver/silvurple/purple 4E494F
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post-join:
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2 exposeds (1 thick 1 thin)
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2 matte reds
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1 2 lblue twisted
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1 2 silver twisted
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1 2 black twisted
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1 2 blue twisted
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1 2 yellow twisted
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1 2 red twisted
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5 teeny wires (orange, yellow, red, blue, grey)
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= 21 total wires (15 if the twisteds are the same)
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impedance:
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Long story short I tried bridging the gap with CAT6 wire, which is no bueno for HDMI. Any cable patching needs to be with something like 0.1 ohms.
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Sources:
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https://www.solder.party/docs/usb-c-breakout/3/?
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https://www.etechnophiles.com/hdmi-connector-pinout/#type-a-hdmi-connector-pinout
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wiring:
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https://www.reddit.com/r/WindowsMR/comments/sa0o0k/i_managed_to_repair_a_broken_samsung_odyssey_and/ by StupidHorseface
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https://imgur.com/a/2cfu4iP - samsung rewiring, 2019
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https://imgur.com/a/xoYdEoP - samsung teardown, 2019
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https://www.reddit.com/r/Soundbars/comments/13krerz/blocking_cec_pin_13_on_the_hdmi_cable_resolved/ - blocking the CEC pin / not connecting it.
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stuff I haven't tried:
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opening the samsung guts:
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https://www.reddit.com/r/WindowsMR/comments/a6vh5b/samsung_hmd_odyssey_partial_teardown_new_pics/ by josh6499
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https://imgur.com/gallery/WGVj0sM (includes a closeup of the proprietary cable end)
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https://imgur.com/a/xoYdEoP (ditto - the cable cannot be removed without the halo)
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https://imgur.com/a/oBFWFm3
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repairing the o+ controller touchpad:
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https://www.reddit.com/r/WindowsMR/comments/hs4koi/how_do_you_disassemble_a_samsung_odyssey_plus/
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reflashing the o+ firmware
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https://www.reddit.com/r/WindowsMR/comments/n03om7/samsung_odyssey_plus_reflash_firmware_method/
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Better O+ display (pixel density):
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https://steamcommunity.com/app/719950/discussions/0/3276824488715073552/?ctp=3
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https://github.com/Fraxul/Explorer-Breakout (for the Lenovo Explorer; but could use the spacer and board concept to replace the O+ cable.
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